Pharaohs, Palaces and Pretty Hot!!!

When people ask me what is the most interesting place I've ever visited I have no hesitation in saying the area around Luxor in Egypt.

As the site of the ancient city of Thebes, Luxor and its surrounding area, can be rightly be called the greatest open area museum in the world.

If you love the story of ancient Egypt this is the place to visit for either, a  week, or two weeks holiday.

 The weather can be fierce, in that the sun is intense most of the time. In January the average maximum temperature is 23 degrees, and from May to September its well over 38 degrees, Phew !!!

Situated on the Eastern banks of the Nile and just over 300 miles south of Cairo  its a typical bustling mixture of markets, bazaars and waterfront activities.



Most of the hotels run along the eastern bank of the river and range from good budget to five star luxury. Take your pick, there are plenty to choose from online or in the brochures.

Luxor, is also a major starting point for the many Nile cruises which are available and the boats tie up along the waterfront, its nice on an evening to stroll along the banks of the river looking at these fine vessels. The only downside is the persistent hassle from the local hawkers. A firm no is not  good enough to banish them, be brutal is my tip, let it rip. If only they realised that the hassle puts you off browsing and has a detrimental effect on your shopping activity, but this is Egypt and its a cultural thing.



Local man trying to sell something to a tourist. If he only realised that it does not work and to let you wander around and pick something yourself would have a better outcome for both parties.

The last word on this is to chill out, go with the flow, smile and talk loudly, with big physical gestures and you should get by.

Where to go and what to see first is the burning issue. In Luxor the two main attractions are the Luxor temple and the Karnak complex of temples, situated  2.5kms north of the town.

Here is a list of the sites in and around Luxor in no particular order of magnificence.

LUXOR TEMPLE

Built of Nubian sandstone this impressive complex was excavated in the 1880's and this uncovering was continuing right up to the 1960's. Parts of the old town were knock down and the temple below all the centuries of rubbish eventually began to be exposed.




Here at the entrance, is a perfect example, the Abu el- Haggeg mosque, is built on the top of parts of the temple, it illustrates what I mean about when viewing the site and taking in the building process over the passage of time. History is the birth and decay of life over many decades.

 Its a good daytime visit, or as with all the temples, a night time visit enhances the feel and mystic of the place.

KARNAK TEMPLE

In my view this complex is without doubt the highlight of any visit. Accompanied by a guide, the tour takes a half day and is so informative that by the end of the tour you will be able to recognise simple hieroglyphics and be quite knowledgeable regarding the different dynasties.



This particular photo gives some idea of the size of the columns and the area of just one of the temples, this one the famous Hypostyle Hall of Amun Re.

So many dynasties used this site, either enhancing, or completely destroying the previous Pharaohs works that so many different styles can be viewed.

 

Every night the Son et Lumiere show tells the story Karnak with the aid of sound and light and it is an unforgettable experience. Do not miss this show, it will leave a lasting impression on you. Take your time and let the story unfold from the narrator and also buy a guidebook, it will help you to navigate the complex and its a good reference point especially as in some places its eerie and dark. Overall, two visits, one in the day and another at night will cover this impressive palace complex.

NILE MINI CRUISE.

One little trip that really came out of the blue and proved to be enjoyable was a mini Nile cruise. Heading downstream to visit the Dendra temple and to take in the sights of the river.



It dates from the period which included the reign of Cleopatra and is much younger than the Luxor temples. You will again have the advantage of a guide and by now you will understand how this temple records the life of a much later time than of the Pharaohs such as the dynasties of  Rammeses  and Tutankhamen.

The most enjoyable aspect is the trip up and down the river. The small local villages seem to be untouched by the passage of time. Children dive into the water and swim towards the wake left by the boat and happily bob about in it just for the sheer joy of it, its a fascinating sight.

The trip is for a full day and food is provided along with drinks and is well worth the price, plus it does show you an all too brief glimpse of the real Egypt and confirms what a great river the Nile is, not only in its sheer size, but its immense importance as a source of life.


VALLEY OF THE KINGS.




Just saying the name brings up tales of the great tombs uncovered by famous archaeologists such as Howard Carter and Belzoni. The resting places of the Pharaohs had been disturbed, in antiquity, by the local tomb robbers, except for a few notable ones, which included Tutankhamen's, uncovered by Carter in the early 20th century.

If you visit the valley you will be escorted over to the west bank of the river by coach. The new bridge over Nile shortens the time considerably. It will be an early morning visit, as the heat is fierce in the afternoon.

Different tombs are included on the tours and whichever one you visit you will  be impressed. Located deep underground, you will walk down steps, through tunnels and passages, that will bring you to burial chambers that will astound you.

 

A burial chamber, seen here with its painted murals that are as vibrant today as the day they were painted.

Its a great opportunity to realise that from the 16th to the 11th century B.C. an advanced civilization existed, which had science, art and religion, at the centre of its very existence centuries before any comparable society was established,  truly inspiring.

 Most of the tombs are at least 300 feet underground, so you will need to be steady on your feet and if you suffer from claustrophobia you might think twice before going on this particular trip. Once more the guides are first rate and the knowledge they impart will enhance the experience considerably.

HATSHEPSUT'S TEMPLE.

Recently restored and standing out on theWest bank of the Nile, this impressive monument to the warrior queen has had an unpleasant recent history. In 1997, 58 tourists and 4 Egyptians were massacred by terrorists, which resulted in a drop in tourism, but numbers have now recovered, but its unnerving to still see the bullet marks on the walls where they were murdered.

At this point I need to mention the security aspect which surrounds any visit to this part of the world. Tourism is the life blood of this area and the government take the security of the historical sites very seriously. Troops carrying guns are a common sight and you will be escorted to and from your hotels in convoys. This may sound extreme, but in reality it not too obtrusive.



The temple is fabulous and should not be missed. Its majestic columns and structure really does bring  home to you how the religious aspect of the ancient Egyptians lives were an all consuming thing. The high priests, who looked after this temple, wielded so much power and influence that the population were controlled, in all aspects of their lives, by these powerful people.

As the buses pull up at the temple, an unauthorised encampment of tourist shops has sprung up. If you want to purchase anything remember that the first price they quote must be brought down by at least two thirds. Its interesting and amusing and in the end everyone is happy.

ASWAN AND THE JOURNEY SOUTH

One of the strangest decisions we made on our visit was to spend a day heading south to visit the Aswan High Dam. The 130 mile train journey is undertaken in first class luxury that is available to foreign travellers and helps the authorities to provide a secure environment.

Luxor station is a throw back from the British time in Egypt, built in the style of any main line station in Britain, its organised chaos, but very funny. The trains are rough on the outside, but , in first class, its quite stylish.

  
 

The trip to Aswan was terrific and we were picked up by our guide outside the station and were taken, along with our fellow travelling companions, to the High Dam. He was a fountain of knowledge and regaled us over how the Egyptians had taken the Russian for ride when they financed the project, in return for having a presence in the region, basically to get up the noses of the Americans. Well done to the Egyptians I say, they upset both of the superpowers eventually and it didn't even bother them.



This view of the dam best illustrates the size and the significance of the project undertaken. 10 years in construction the dam not only fulfils its primary role, i.e. to control the flow of the Nile and the need to stop the cycle of drought and flood. It also generates about half of the country's electricity with its twelve generators producing at full capacity 2.1 gigawatts.

Its an impressive sight and to look out over Lake Nasser and realise that it stretches back some 550 kms and is around 35 kms at its widest point, its no wonder that a major resettlement of the Nubian region had to occur, plus the impressive relocation of the temple at Abu Simbel.

Included in our tour was a ride in a felucca in and around the cataracts on the other side of the dam. We crossed the Nile in some style and had an interesting meal in a Nubian restaurant. Best to say here was that our guide really tucked in and encouraged the party to do the same. It was a hot and spicy meal and we certainly enjoyed the company, if not the meal.

  

Our return journey to Luxor was fine and it was such an interesting excursion in that you really felt you were seeing something different from the normal tourist offerings.

So there you have it, just a brief summary of some of the major sights which you can visit in this part of the world. I've only touched on the major ones really and from my distinct point of view.

 My advice is go and see the sights of this ancient civilisation. If this kind of holiday excites you, all well and good, be careful and realise its a very different place from Europe, a very different place.

Weatherley's Wonderful Washington

Washington D. C. is a visitors delight. Good public transport and a plethora of interesting things to do and see.

Getting to Washington is easy from the U.K. Heathrow is usually the access point and we chose the daily service provided by Virgin Atlantic. We were not disappointed, a great service was provided, good clean aeroplanes, an efficient  operation, with a good level of in-flight entertainment.

The Airbus 340-600 has plenty of room in economy and the flight to Washington Dulles was smooth and comfortable. The transfer from the airport to the city is uncomplicated, we chose a taxi to our hotel.

There are a variety of types accommodation available, from budget hotels to five star luxury. We selected the Doubletree by Hilton in Crystal City, very close to the Pentagon Mall and the subway, which provided easy access into the city. The rooms were spacious and had all the facilities to ensure a comfortable stay. Breakfast provision was fine and proved to have enough of a varied menu for our stay of 5 nights. As I have said choose what you want, there's plenty on offer.


           


Washington is a city that is spread out over a tidal flood plain. No high rise buildings within the city, there is a law, past in 1910, that restricts the height of buildings, but its a common misconception that no building can be higher on the skyline than the Washington Memorial. It just looks better and adds to the grandeur of the place.

Transport around the city, in my view, is enhanced by the Metro subway system. It has clean modern stations, good rolling stock and proved to be a great way to move around the city.



Numerous stations throughout the city offer drop off points, conveniently close to all the major visitor locations. Try it out, its well worth the fare and its a great feeling when it emerges from the tunnel and goes over the Potomac on its way to the National Mall, the main visitor attraction and a place you get to know very well, its where it all happens!!

So, where can you go and what can you see.Well, a 4, or 5 day trip is going to be busy and you need a list of what's on offer. My advice and recommendations are as follows..... take your time, if the weathers fine, enjoy the views and people watch and try not to be "museumed out", if that's a word, but it sums up what can happen.

My top ten places to see are not in ranking order, but offer, in my opinion, the essentials to experience Washington D.C.


THE NATIONAL MALL.

From the steps of the Capital Building to the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, the National Mall stretches for 1.9 miles. Its impressive and is home to most of the museums and some government buildings and has lots of war memorials and monuments to past Presidents of the United States. All of these are very tastefully done.



Its a long walk from one end to the other, so good comfortable walking shoes are a must and my tip is to sit a spell, stay a while, relax and  have a delightful pizza, or muffin, washed down with a nice hot drink, which can be purchased from one of the many kiosks situated all the way down the Mall. In my view the best value eating in Washington.

Subway stations are located in quiet a few places along its length and are useful as a starting off point. Sit on a bench and watch the lunchtime power walkers and joggers working up a sweat while you take in this impressive public space.

The most popular museums and art galleries are located along its outer edges.Whichever you choose they are all worth a visit, so its your choice, take you pick. I will be reviewing some of them later in the blog. Its a personal opinion, but its one, that I think, gives each one a fair review.


THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL.

         

Iconic and Impressive are the main two words I would use to sum up this particular edifice. Of course its original aim was to honour and celebrate the life of Abraham Lincoln, but today its equally as famous for that other great emancipator, Dr Martin Luther King and his " I have a dream " speech on the steps of the memorial in 1963.

The statue itself is an impressive sight and oozes the quiet dignity associated with the great man. Its worth arriving there at twilight when the shadows really enhance the feeling of the building. A must visit in my view.

THE NATIONAL ARCHIVE.

This impressive building is located on Pennsylvania Avenue, close to the Mall. It houses and displays the Constitution, the Bill of Rights and the Declaration of Independence.

Built in the neo- classical style, this handsome building has much much more than the above documents. Its sound archive is wonderful and other displays are a joy and one can pass several hours within its walls.



The overall feel of the place is dynamic and the cafeteria is good value for a little snackette during the day.
Some of the exhibits are very interesting and it confirms what a great collection is on offer. Its well worth visiting.

You can spend a morning, or afternoon and not overstay your welcome.

ARLINGTON CEMETERY.

This is a very powerful experience and should be viewed with due reverence. The military cemetery is 624 acres in area and has over 400,000 graves. Dating from the Civil War, the watch words are silence and respect.



Notable military figures, politicians and even astronauts are buried within its walls. Its easy to get there from central Washington on the Blue Line subway. Tours are available throughout the day and the ritual of the changing of the guard at the Tomb of  Unknowns is well worth seeing. The tomb is perpetually guarded and the changing of the guard is a display of intricate marching and drill techniques that only the American military, in my opinion, can deliver. The respect and dignity has a profound affect on the crowd, you do feel honoured to watch the ritual, its a moving experience and should not be missed.



Without doubt the most visited grave is the one of President Kennedy with its eternal flame. Close by are the graves of his brothers, Robert and Edward, both marked with simple crosses, at their own requests. The grave of America's most decorated soldier can be also be found. Audy Murphy, who later went on to star in Hollywood movies, has that honour and his plain headstone is a fitting tribute to him.

Its a good morning, or afternoon excursion ,the changing of the guard takes place ever half hour during the summer and every hour during the winter months, so there is no need to rush your visit, take your time, its worth it to walk around at a steady pace and take everything in. Some of the views from the top of the hill, looking down towards the city, from the old house that used to belong to the Confederate general Robert E Lee, are stunning.

MARINE CORPS WAR MEMORIAL.

While you are in the Arlington area it would be remiss not to visit this memorial, cast in bronze, the statue is 32 feet tall and the flagpole is alone is 60 feet long. A truly massive structure and a fitting tribute to the Marine Corps. The memorial was dedicated by Dwight D Eisenhower in 1951 and is based on the iconic photo taken on the island of  Iwo Jima during the 2nd World War battle.

All the battles by the Marine Corps are inscribed around the base and it is without doubt one of the most impressive structure I have seen. Looking back towards Washington it aligns perfectly with the Mall and creates an outstanding sight. Evening twilight bathes the figures in an eerie light and this adds to the majestic feel.

No public funds were used, the money was raised by donations from within the Marine Corps. A true testimony to the comradeship  within the Corps.


  






Its a fitting end to a day out and this part of the city offers up some nice little restaurants if you wish to grab a meal before returning to the city.


THE JEFFERSON MEMORIAL.


In my opinion the only time to view this memorial is on a clear night, just as the light is failing and the floodlights have just been switched on. We viewed this on a warm autumnal evening and the image below is a true representation of how it looked.





We walked from the Mall, around the Tidal Basin towards this dignified neo classical building. Inside is the statue of the great man himself, a founding father and 3rd President of the United States. Its interior is as impressive as its exterior,  inscriptions from the Declaration of Independence and other writing by the great man himself, adorn the internal tableau's. Sit on the steps and taken in the scene, this is why you should choose to visit Washington, the history, the buildings, but most of all the atmosphere and this memorial , in my opinion, has that magic feel.


THE NATIONAL MALL MUSEUMS.

The museums, which flank either side of the Mall, are some of the best in the America, if not the world. When we visited we chose the National Air and Space Museum and the National Museum of the American Indian.

 Its important, to pace your visits to museums. My words are " museumed out ", its as if you become blind to the exhibits and can't take any more information in . You need to take a break.

 Both museum buildings are stunning in their architecture and most importantly the exhibition halls are packed with terrific displays. There is too much to go into here, but check out each museums website and most certainly plan and prepare what you want to see.




                                                                           

Two views, one of the interior of the National Air and Space museum and the stunning exterior of Museum of the American Indian. Both places have good facilities for eating and drinking and the prices are reasonable. The choice is yours, whatever interests you, be it art, or object, there is so much to see and enjoy.


THE HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM.

On our last day, before our evening flight back to the UK, we decided that we would visit this particular museum. Its message and displays can be an emotional experience and you do need to be prepared to be both shocked, upset and uplifted by the evidence of the horror of what unfolded during that terrible time. What stands out is the capacity of the human spirit  to withstand so much, but to still come out at the other end intact and with dignity.



The Room of Shoes, a very moving experience along with the Tower of Faces,are


                                                                                 

two of the displays that vividly portray the horror of the Holocaust. In my opinion, its a must see during your visit, its a half day experience that is both humbling and strangely uplifting in that, to me, it confirms the tenacity of the human spirit.


THE WHITE HOUSE.

No visit to Washington would be complete without seeing the dwelling at 1600 Pennsylvania  Avenue.
The iconic building is not a let down and approaching it from the Mall, its surprising how close you can get to the building.

       


Two images of the White House that illustrate my point regarding how close you can get to the building and if you are in luck you may see Marine 1 ferrying the President to and from the residence, or drop on one of the motorcades which seem to abound in this particular area of the capital.



Its always good to have a souvenir snap as a keepsake, it does not disappoint, make it a must see on your trip, plus the surrounding area is a nice area to stroll around. Some decent bars and shopping areas are within close proximity so it can be combined with a shopping trip, all very civilised and it will hopefully keep your partner happy to have a least spent a few hours snapping up some bargains.


THE WAR MEMORIALS.

It may seem strange to have these on a top ten list, but its my list and I think the merit and inclusion. Almost every conflict that the United States of America has participate in has a memorial. Whatever you politics these memorials are to honour the dead and they do that in different ways. From the formal to the artistic and sometimes to the haunting each one is impressive. Take your time and pick out the ones that might mean something to you. My own two favourites are the Korean War memorial and the very grand memorial to the 2nd World War, both so different in their design, but both very evocative.

    very different and thought provoking.






Two very different memorials but both equally impressive.





So there you are. I hope it will prove helpful when you are planning your visit. There is much, much more to the city and for a 4, or 5 day visit, I'm sure you will find other attractions that will prove to be just as interesting. Enjoy the nations capital and take home with you some great memories.